Did you know that Jacquard weaving is the first computer system? The unusual marriage of 0-1 binary language and creativity works wonders. On the loom, the warp and weft threads intersect to create the patterns. Above or below, two possibilities for an infinity of variations. The fabrics thus shaped offer a shimmering multitude of designs and relief effects. A style recognizable among all.
© Dutel - 2023
Dutel: Jacquard specialist
The DUTEL company has been a specialist in Jacquard weaving for 85 years. It is now one of the world leaders. From exclusive blends of viscose, polyester, cottons and fancy yarns, it weaves luxurious fabrics for fashion and ready-to-wear professionals: premium and high-end brands, young designers and creators seeking originality and made in France, of course.
Jean-Christophe Dutel defines his company by this double specialization: the know-how of Jacquard weaving and creation. Using techniques devised in the 19th century in Lyon and brought up to date, the DUTEL house is able to adapt to the specific demands of designers in order to produce fabrics associated with future collections. Lightweight fabrics for shirts, thicker for coats or jackets. The style office imagines and draws the patterns, but also establishes the layout, that is to say the number of times the pattern is repeated in the width, and the layout, in other words the grid that defines the 0-1 weaving system.
DUTEL is the flagship of French Jacquard. The house now exports all over the world: to Japan, South Korea, the United States, and Northern Europe. His strength ? To be an integrated company: the entire production and marketing chain is controlled from A to Z. Warping, weaving, finishing and quality control. Each step is carefully supervised.
"Being an integrated company allows us to meet deadlines and guarantee the quality of our fabrics. Thanks to this independence, we are also able to adapt very quickly to the needs of our customers, particularly in creative projects. Designers identify qualities that they like for their collections and we exclusively develop matching themes."
© Dutel - 2023
A family home
DUTEL has been a family business for 3 generations. If the head office is now in Rillieux-la-Pape, very close to Lyon, the workshops are still located in the small village of Panissières in the Loire. Jean-Christophe Dutel remembers his holidays spent there.
"My grandparents lived at the factory. It was my grandfather Jean and my great-uncle Marcel who created the company in 1937. Dutel Frères specialized in tie fabric. A 150m2 workshop and two looms to weave. That's all! The village of Panissières is located in a region where the peasants spun and wove hemp. They all had a workshop in the barn. It was a tradition."
The family history then continued with the next generation, Jacques and André Dutel, who joined the company in 1970. They acquired 24 additional looms and considerably enlarged the workshop premises. The modernization continues over the following years: the association of know-how and technology is part of the DNA of the DUTEL company. Jean-Christophe Dutel, Jacques' son, studied business and joined the company in 1997. He is now the manager.
“We have always developed our production as opportunities arise and according to the possibilities offered by our industrial tool. For example, Jacques and André Dutel had, in the early 80s, set up a production of scarves and shawls. This production stopped around 1995 to make way for Dutel Création.For my part, I accompanied the diversification of our original profession by contributing to the development of a new category of fabrics intended for wedding outfits and fancy costumes. . Today, we are the European leader for formal Jacquard."
© Dutel - 2023
The preservation of know-how is now guaranteed by the “Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant” label. But the Jacquard DUTEL is also an opening towards modernity. Always in search of originality and innovation, the house creates nearly 2,000 designs a year and develops new qualities of fabrics, for example for luggage.
Environmental issues are also part of the new priorities. Dutel has modernized its industrial organization to make it more efficient and less energy-consuming. In 2013, the entire fleet of machines was renewed to guarantee better yields, but also a higher quality of the working environment. Today, production is carried out on demand to avoid surpluses and labeled OEKO-TEX 100. The use of natural or recycled yarns is more and more frequent in the creations offered.
© Dutel - 2023
Dutel and Philéone: a partnership that makes sense
The collaboration with the Philéone boutique went without saying for Jean-Christophe Dutel. He has known for many years the Maison des Canuts and the commitment of Philibert and Virginie Varenne to the promotion of know-how and the French textile industry.
"Philéone is a beautiful project that brings the heritage and history of French textiles to life. It highlights know-how and makes it known to the general public. In addition to this, the shop allows individuals to have access to high quality products normally reserved for professionals."
As early as 1937, Jean and Marcel Dutel created fabrics for Les Soyeux de Lyon. In 2023, the Jacquard DUTEL is a must in the Lyon silk industry. It naturally found its place in the Philéone boutique.
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Author of the article: Marie Formarier for Phileone France.